A Few Thoughts on Paris
On the Parisian Stereotype
To be fully honest, I was afraid to go to Paris, not just because I was alone, but also because of the stereotype I’d heard so much about. My sister had a pretty rough time when she was there, getting yelled at on more than one occasion for not being able to speak French.
Lucky for me, I had a very different experience. Maybe because of the warnings I’d received beforehand on Parisian etiquette, or the guidance of my friends who helped me get around the city. Maybe because the stereotype isn’t as bad as I thought it would be, or maybe I just got lucky.
I thought people wouldn’t like me for being an American, but if anything, people were very interested in California. I was constantly asked if it was sunny all the time there, if I surf, and if I was ever in a movie. I guess stereotypes go both ways.
If you ever go to Paris, keep in mind to always say “Bonjour” when entering a shop. If you need to ask for directions start with “Pardon” or “Excusez moi.” I think the whole “French are rude” idea comes from a misunderstanding between cultural norms. If we approach the French in a way that is perceived as rude, then they’re going to be rude back. That’s just the way things work. It might also be because Parisians, specifically, are fed up with the overwhelming number of tourists invading their city. Overtourism is a major problem in Europe, so I can understand the frustration.
On Traveling Alone
Paris was my first big trip alone, and I have to say that I wouldn’t suggest it as a trip for a solo female traveler. In Sweden, nobody will bother you while you walk down the street. In Paris, that’s a different story. I carried around a metal water bottle that I could wield as a weapon if need be, which was some comfort. I will say that most men backed off when I ignored them or simply said no, and I felt safer walking alone in Paris than I do in LA, where the catcalls are harsher and the men don’t back off.
My first experience was right when I got off the bus from the airport. I was walking the short distance to my friend’s apartment along the busy road by the Palais Garnier. It was late at night, and a man in a car pulled up next to me as I walked and asked if I was alright. My mom had just reminded me of “Taken,” so I ignored him and walked faster. He yelled, “Wait!” and then pulled up again further up the street. He asked where I was going. To which I replied that I was fine and kept walking. He drove off and left me alone after that.
My next experience was in front of the Eiffel Tower. There were loads of people picnicking, waiting for it to light up, so I sat in the grass and joined them. I was a little spooked when a man walked up to me, but he handed me his phone and asked if I could help take a picture of him. I obliged, but then he stood next to me and kept trying to talk to me. I only gave one-word answers, but he continued to stand there. The tower lit up, I got my picture, I said I had to go, and then briskly walked to the train station. He didn’t follow me.
Finally, when I had gotten off the train, I was walking up the stairs onto the street when a guy started walking next to me and playfully danced his way up, trying to flirt and make me laugh. There was another girl on the stairs I made eye contact with, and I was about to grab onto her arm and pretend we were together. Luckily, I didn’t have to, since he gave up when I didn’t immediately reciprocate to his approach. I was thankful for that.
All of these encounters may have been completely harmless, but what makes them creepy is that they were all strangers. I’m not going to get into a stranger’s car, I’m not going to enjoy the Eiffel Tower with some dude who just walked up to me, and I’m sure as hell not going to flirt with a stranger in a subway station.
On What I Did There
I did a lot during my two days in Paris, but I still feel like I barely scratched the surface of what’s there. If you go, don’t be like me. Plan a longer trip.
I got into Paris pretty late and stayed at an old friend’s apartment. I loved catching up with her, so my first night and morning in Paris mostly involved just that. We walked to the Sacre Coeur and looked out over the city. We also stopped in a thrift shop or two in Montmartre. As soon as I was on my own, though, I went into extreme travel mode.
I first went to the Palais Garnier. As one who grew up doing ballet, who dreamed of dancing for the Paris Opera Ballet, and who read and watched the Phantom of the Opera, this was one of the top things on my list. The entrance fee was a bit steep in my opinion, so unless you’re a super fan like I was, I wouldn’t suggest going. I loved seeing the costumes on display, and the main stairwell looked as enchanted as it had in the movies. A part of me wished that I’d booked tickets to see the ballet that night, but another part of me knew that there were plenty of other things to do.
If there is anything that I wish I hadn’t done, it was seeing the Mona Lisa. The Louvre is free for EU students, which was great news for me. The line, however, was horrendous. I waited for an hour, and the experience wasn’t great. The reason you go to see a great work of art in-person is to really absorb all the details. I wish I could’ve gotten a good, long look at the painting, but this was not the case. I was conveyor belted through and only allowed one picture and then was forced to move on. A nice British man helped push me to the front so I could get my picture, but I barely got to see the painting. As much as I love Da Vinci, I didn’t think the Mona Lisa was worth the time.
I walked through a few more exhibits in the Louvre before it closed and then wandered through some shops before getting dinner. My dinner was enjoyable, but I suggest that if you’re eating alone, bringing a book might be a good idea. It felt a little awkward just to sit there and eat in silence.
I felt quite refreshed (and maybe a little tipsy thanks to the wine) after my dinner and decided to take a walk along the Seine towards the Eiffel Tower. It was quite a relaxing walk, and I enjoyed seeing the Eiffel Tower light up twice during my stroll. I subwayed back to the hostel and was surprised to find my room filled with Americans who were studying abroad in Sweden just like I was. I felt bad that I had to decline going clubbing with them, but I had an early morning planned and didn’t want to risk being hungover in Versailles where I was going to meet another friend.
We toured the palace in the morning, which was beautiful. I especially enjoyed the gardens: flowers, fountains, and classical music, what more could you ask for? The Palace of Versailles is a crowded and touristy spot, but there’s so much history and opulence, that I still think it’s worth braving the crowds. It’s also a nice little break to get out of the city.
We did a quick tour of the Gallery of Coaches before heading to my friend’s apartment for lunch. It was then that I learned that her family (namely her mom) had spent the entire day before preparing a grand feast for me. It was one of the best meals I’ve ever had, and I’m still dreaming about the fig tart we had for dessert.
We left the apartment, our bellies stuffed with good food and ears with good conversation. My friend brought me back to Paris, where we walked through the Île de la Cité. There was an adorable open-air market selling plants and birds and knickknacks. We stood outside the Notre Dame, but weren’t allowed very close, since the structure is still quite unstable thanks to the fire. The Sainte-Chapelle had the most magnificent stained glass I’d ever seen. I was entranced with the intense detail involved.
We walked through the Jardin du Palais Royal and the Jardin des Tuileries, both of which are peaceful gardens I could spend hours sitting in. When the gardens closed, we went to Le Bouillon Chartier for dinner, where I had my first taste of escargot (in case you were wondering, I loved it). I felt bad that I couldn’t come close to finishing my meal because of the feast I’d had for lunch, but it really was delicious. I came back to the hostel around 10pm and completely passed out.
My experience in Paris was uniquely different from all my other travels while studying abroad, and I must say that I consider it one of the best trips I’ve had so far. I long to go back soon and see everything that I had missed on my first trip.
